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The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru bursts from the glass with a characteristically exuberant bouquet of cherries and licorice, complemented by hints of peonies and warm spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and vibrant, its powdery structuring tannins concealed in an ample core of strikingly succulent, lively fruit. This Charmes-Chambertin's evident freshness is a vindication of Loïc Dugat-Py's decision to harvest early—and, just as importantly, his punctilious viticulture. Vinified with 60% whole cluster, this is another cuvée that saw entirely new barrels in previous vintages but was matured in only 66% new oak this year.